Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts

Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts by Erica Knudson

 

 

 

 

 

I designed these Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts to compliment a hat from someone else’s pattern. There is one cable up the top of the arm & hand. The thumb gusset section requires a bit of concentration to count the increase rows and cable rows, but if you write down what row you’re on, you’re good to go! They are a size Women’s Medium.


Materials:

220 yards worsted weight yarn (photo here in Cascade Paints) This will most likely be too much yarn, but I wanted to give you a safe estimate.
Size 4mm (size 6) DPNs (5th needle used for cable, but you may also use a cable needle)
Stitch Markers
Waste yarn for holding stitches



Instructions (from the bottom up):

Cast on 40 sts, divide among three or four needles (your preference) and join, without twisting, in the round. If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.



Cuff FOR BOTH MITTENS:

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 8 rounds. – 40 sts

Next row; (k11, k2tog) 3 times, knit 1. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows; k3, p1, k12, p1, k20. – 37 sts

Distribute sts on 3 needles as follows: Needle 1 = first 19 sts, Needle 2 = 9 sts, Needle 3 = 9 sts. The first needle, with 19 sts, will hold the cable pattern for both the right- and left-hand mittens, but the cable pattern is reversed for each mitt. For the cabling, you may choose to use the 5th DPN as a cable needle.

 

Arm, Thumb Gusset, and Hand FOR THE LEFT MITTEN:

Each row remains at a total of 37 sts until thumb gusset.

First cable row: k3, p1, C12F, p1, k2, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18.

Next row: k3, p1, C12B, p1, k2, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18.

 

Thumb Gusset FOR LEFT MITTEN:

For the next row: k3, p1, C12F, p1, k2, k17, pm, M1, pm, k1. – 38 sts

K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to end.

Next rows,

A. K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to first mkr, sm, M1, k to last mkr, M1, sm, k1. (The first time you do this, you will end with 3 sts between markers.)

B. For the next 2 rows: K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to end.


**Here’s the tricky part!!! You need to repeat rows A & B until you have 15 sts between markers, ending on the increase row A. AND…


While repeating these rows A & B, you need to include a Cable row on Needle 1, just like before, on every 9th row. Alternate Cable Front and Cable Back rows. It helps to have a note nearby to keep track of which row you are on. Here is an example of what would follow: 


A(5 between mkrs) 
B

B

A(7 between mkrs)

B(CB)

B

A(9 between mkrs)

B

B

A(11 between mkrs)

B

B

A(13 between mkrs)

B(CF)

B
A(15 between mkrs)


Hand FOR LEFT MITTEN:

Next row: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to mkr, place the 15 thumb sts between mkrs on waste yarn or stitch holder, k1. – 37 sts

For the next 4 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts

K3, p1, CB12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts



Arm, Thumb Gusset, and Hand FOR THE RIGHT MITTEN:

Each row remains at a total of 37 sts until thumb gusset.

First cable row: k2, p1, C12B, p1, k3, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18.

Next row: k2, p1, C12F, p1, k3, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18.



Thumb Gusset FOR RIGHT MITTEN:

For the next row: k2, p1, C12B, p1, k3, k1, pm, M1, pm, k17. – 38 sts

K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to end.

Next rows,

A. K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to first mkr, sm, M1, k to last mkr, M1, sm, k17. (The first time you do this, you will end with 3 sts between markers.)

B. For the next 2 rows: K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to end.

**Remember to use opposite cable rows for the Right mitt. Here is an example of what would follow: 

A(5 between mkrs) 
B
B
A(7 between mkrs)
B(CF)
B
A(9 between mkrs)
B
B
A(11 between mkrs)
B
B
A(13 between mkrs)
B(CB)
B

A(15 between mkrs)



Hand FOR RIGHT MITTEN:

Next row: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k1, place the 15 thumb sts between mkrs on waste yarn or stitch holder, k17. – 37 sts

For the next 4 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts

K2, p1, CF12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts



Finish Hand FOR BOTH MITTENS:

(k11, kfb) 3 times, k1. – 40 sts

K2, p2 ribbing for 8 rows. – 40 sts

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Thumb FOR BOTH MITTENS:

Transfer the 15 sts from the waste yarn onto 3 needles. Join new yarn in-the-round and pick up 4 sts along the gaps. – 19 sts

Knit one round even until 2 sts remain, k2tog. – 18 sts

Knit 4 rounds in this ribbing; k2, p2 until last 2 sts of round, k1, p1. – 18 sts

Bind off loosely in pattern.



Finishing:

Weave in ends, using thumb ends to reinforce the sts around the thumb. Block if desired.



Key:

C12F = place the next 6 sts on the cable needle in front of the work, knit the next 6 sts and then knit the 6 sts from cable needle (cable appears to move to the left)

C12B = place the next 6 sts on the cable needle in back of the work, knit the next 6 sts and then knit the 6 sts from cable needle (cable appears to move to the right)

k = knit

k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
 

mkr = marker

M1 = make one stitch, a method of increasing

p = purl

pm = place marker
 

sm = slip marker

St, sts = stitch, stitches 

It's a Boy! and "I Love You" Hearts

Our little boy was born in October.

Baby sweater I knit early this fall.  It turns out the blue striping paid off, considering we had a boy.

"I Love You" hearts that I made for our little girl to carry in her pocket while we were away having a baby at the hospital.  I left an envelope of these at home for the Grandmas to hand out at their discretion.

I used fabric scraps, quilt batting scraps, and roughly sewed them with just a needle and thread.  Each heart is only about the size of a quarter.

 

I hope you're enjoying what is left of the fall weather. 

Me, I'm dreaming of Christmas lights and gingerbread cookies already - which is not a normal thing for me, but is something that I'm ok with. 

Santa Cruz Cowl and Mitts

Santa Cruz Cowl and Mitts
By Erica Knudson

The examples in the photos were made with scraps of aran and worsted weight yarn, a size I crochet hook and stitch markers. The cowl and mitts are crocheted in-the-round.

I used a border color, of which you’d want a full skein, as well as portions of skeins from several other colors – probably ¼ skein for each. If you use a single color, I’d recommend having two full skeins available.

I completed the cowl first, reserving some of each color to use later in the mitts, and I crocheted both mitts at the same time, switching back and forth every couple of rows to ensure there was even coloring. If you use various colors, I recommend crocheting in the ends as you go to avoid a lot of work at the end.


Santa Cruz Cowl

Santa Cruz Cowl
By Erica Knudson

Chain 100 + 2 for base chain = 102.

Join with sl st, being careful not to twist.

1. (Using border color, if desired) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each st around. Join. – 100

Place marker and move up with each round.

2. Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. – 100

3. (Starting with scrap yarn, if desired), Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. – 100

4. “Spaces Row”: Ch 2, hdc in first st, (ch1, skip 1 st, hdc in next st), repeat (…) through end of row. Join. – 50

5. “Spaces Row.” (see row 4 for instructions) Join. – 50

6. Ch2, hdc in each st around including ch sts. Join. – 100

For Rows 7 through 13: Repeat row 6.

If you’d like your finished cowl to be “taller” or appear thicker, you can add more Repeat Row 6 rows here.

14. “Spaces Row.” (see row 4 for instructions) Join. – 50

15. “Spaces Row.” (see row 4 for instructions) Join. – 50

16. Ch 2, hdc in each st around including ch sts. Join. – 100

For Rows 17 and 18: Repeat row 9 (using border color, if desired). Join. – 100

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Key Below

Santa Cruz Mitts

Santa Cruz Mitts
By Erica Knudson

Chain 26 + 2 for base chain = 28.

Join with sl st, being careful not to twist.

1. (Using border color, if desired ) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each st around. Join. – 26

Place marker and move up with each round.

2. Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. – 26

3. (Starting with scrap yarn, if desired), Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. – 26

4. “Spaces Row”: Ch 2, hdc in first st, (ch1, skip 1 st, hdc in next st), repeat (…) through end of row. Join. – 13

5. “Spaces Row.” (see row 4 for instructions) Join. – 13

6. Ch 2, hdc ineach st around including ch sts. Join. – 26

For Rows 7 through 13: Repeat row 6.

If you’d like your finished mitts to be “taller” or farther up the arm, you can add more Repeat Row 6 rows here.

14. Ch 2, hdc 22, turn. – 22

15. (Using border color, if desired) Ch 2, hdc 22, turn. – 22

16. Ch 2, hdc 22 ch 4, skip space and sl st to other side. – 22 – 4 chains = 26. Thumb hole is made.

17. Ch 2, hdc in each st around including ch sts. Join. – 26.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Key:
ch = chain

hdc = half double crochet

st = stitch

sl st = slip stitch


**This pattern is for personal use only. Thanks!

TRUFFLE COWL

This is a nice project to show off chunky handspun yarn. The weight of this yarn is sometimes quite variegated. It lends itself to natural, artsy feel in this project, though, so I’m really happy with how it turned out.

Truffle Cowl (Handspun)
By Erica Knudson

Truffle Cowl
By Erica Knudson

The example in the photos was made with bulky yarn (handspun, variegated in weight) and a size N crochet hook.

Chain 127.

1. Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each st across – 126 Starting ch of row counts as 1 st.

Join this row and each row with a sl st at the top of the chain across.

2. Ch 3, skip 1 st, hdc in next st. (Ch 1, skip 1 st, hdc in next) throughout row, join – 63

3. Ch 2, hdc in next and throughout row (including ch sts), join – 126

4. Repeat row 2 – 63

5. through 9. Repeat row 3 – 126
If you'd like your cowl even wider, you can continue repeating row 3 until the desired width is achieved.

10. Fasten off. Weave in ends.


Key:
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch

**Please don’t sell this pattern.

CASUAL HAT & MITTIES



Casual Hat
By Erica Knudson



Casual Hat & Mitties

By Erica Knudson

This pattern includes a toddler-size (age 2) hat & fingerless mitties.  One could replace the picot edging with a simple single crochet border for a less-frilly look.

Materials Used for both hat & mitties: Size K Hook, Bulky Weight Yarn

Hat:

1.  Ch 5    Sl st in the first ch to make a ring.

2.  Ch 2 (counts as 1 here and throughout), 9 hdc in circle – 10    Sl st to join this row and each row after.

3.  Ch 2, hdc in same st    2 hdc in each st around – 20

4.  Ch 2, hdc in same st,  (2 hdc in next, hdc in next) around – 30

5.  Ch 2, hdc in same st,  (2 hdc in next, hdc in next 2) around – 40

6.  Ch 2, hdc in same st,  (2 hdc in next, hdc in next 3) around – 50

7.  Ch 2, hdc in same st,  (2 hdc in next, hdc in next 4) around – 60

8.  Ch 2, hdc in next and around – 60

9.  through 17. Repeat Row 8 – 60

10. Ch 2, sc in next, (ch 1, sc in next) around – 60

Casual Mitties
By Erica Knudson

11. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Mitties (each is made in one piece)

1.  Ch 12 (for base) + 2 = 14

2.  Hdc in 3^rd ch from hook and across – 12

3.  Ch 2, hdc in each st across – 12

4.  through 13. Repeat Row 3 – 12

5.  Without fastening off, Join long sides of rectangle and sl st across seam (makes a tube shape).

6.  Ch 1, (sc, ch1) around cuff until the last st.
    At the last st, ch 2 (loosely) and sl st to join across (making a toddler-sized thumb hole).

7.  Fasten off and weave in ends.
8.  Repeat for 2^nd mitt.

Key:

ch = chain

hdc = half double crochet

sl st = slip stitch

st = stitch

sc = single crochet

**Please do not sell this pattern.








Casual Hat & Mitties
By Erica Knudson



"Truffle" Handspun Yarn

"Truffle" Handspun Icelandic Wool Yarn
Erica Knudson

My Man purchased a lot of Icelandic wool from an organic farm and suprised me with it for my birthday. The brown and white colors are the natural colors of this bulky handspun yarn, made by me (and I'm really proud of it).

PIRATE APOLLO DOLL (PATTERN)



Pirate Apollo
Erica Knudson



Pirate Apollo

By Erica Knudson

Materials Used: Size G Hook, Vanna’s Choice Yarn in Brick, Charcoal Print, White, Dusty Blue, Chocolate, and Honey, black and grey yarn, filling material, black embroidery thread, and a blunt needle.

*This pattern is meant to be worked in continuous rounds, so a stitch marker is highly recommended. 

Head and Body:

(with Red)

1.  ch2

2. Round 1: 6 sc in first ch - place stitch marker - 6

3. Round 2: 2sc in each st around - 12

4. Round 3: (2sc in next, sc in next) - 18

5. Round 4: (2 sc in next, sc in next 2) - 24

6. Round 5: (2 sc in next, sc in next 3) - 30

7. Round 6: (2 sc in next, sc in next 4) - 36

8. Rounds 7, 8, 9: sc in each st around - 36

(with Black, Grey and Silver Print)

9. Round 10: (sc2tog, sc in next 4) – 30

(with White)

10. Round 11: (sc2tog, sc in next 3) - 24

11. Rounds 12, 13: sc in each st around - 24

12. Round 14: (sc2tog, sc in next 2) - 18

13. Round 15: sc in each st around – 18

Begin stuffing by filling the head and continue as you complete the body.

14. Round 16: (sc2tog, sc in next) – 12

(with Black, Grey and Silver Print)

15. Round 17: (2sc in next, sc in next) - 18

16. Round 18: (2sc in next, sc in next 2) - 24

(with Blue)

17. Round 19: (2 sc in next, sc in next 2) - 32

18. Round 20: (2 sc in next, sc in next 3 ) - 40

19. Rounds 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29: sc in each st around - 40

(with Red)

20. Rounds 30, 31: sc in each st around - 40

(with Blue)

21. Rounds 32, 33: sc in each st around - 40

(with Brown)

22. Round 34: (sc2tog, sc in next 3) - 32

23. Round 35: (sc2tog, sc in next 3) - 25

24. Round 36: (sc2tog, sc in next) - 17

25. Round 37: (sc2tog, sc in next) - 11

26. Round 38: (sc2tog) - 6

27. Round 39: (sc2tog) - 3

28. Fasten Off

Bandana Tie:

(with Red)

1. ch10

2. Round 1: ch1, turn, sc in each st across with slip st in last st.

3. Fasten off. 

4. Sew onto “bandana” portion of head.

Belt:

(with Red)

1. ch25

2. Round 1: ch1, turn, sc in each st across with slip st in last st.

3. Fasten off.

4. Tie into knot and sew knot together.

5. Sew onto “belt” portion of body.

Arms & Legs:

(with White and then Black, Grey and Silver Print for arms, and with Black and Brown for legs. Arms have two rounds of white and then change color.  Legs have 6 rounds of black and then change color.)

1. ch2

2. Round 1: 6 sc in first ch *place stitch marker* - 6

3. Round 3: (2sc in next, sc in next) - 9

4. Rounds, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12: sc in each st around - 9

5.Fasten off.

6.Stuff with filling.

7. Sew onto body.

Sword:

(with Grey)

1. ch10

2. Round 1: ch1, turn, sc in each st across with slip st in last st.

3. Fasten off.

(with Black)

4. ch6

5. Fasten off.

6. Sew black chain (handle) around bottom of sword and sew sword onto hand.

Final Touches:

1. Use embroidery thread for eye, eye patch, and mouth.

2. Create a small loop with the (Honey) gold-colored thread for a hoop earring.

Key:

ch = chainsc = single crochetst = stich(...) = repeat enclosed instructions throughout roundsc2tog = insert hook, yarn over & draw loop, insert hook into next st, yarn over & draw through all 3 loops (a method of decreasing)

**Please do not sell this pattern.