Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts

Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts by Erica Knudson

 

 

 

 

 

I designed these Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts to compliment a hat from someone else’s pattern. There is one cable up the top of the arm & hand. The thumb gusset section requires a bit of concentration to count the increase rows and cable rows, but if you write down what row you’re on, you’re good to go! They are a size Women’s Medium.


Materials:

220 yards worsted weight yarn (photo here in Cascade Paints) This will most likely be too much yarn, but I wanted to give you a safe estimate.
Size 4mm (size 6) DPNs (5th needle used for cable, but you may also use a cable needle)
Stitch Markers
Waste yarn for holding stitches



Instructions (from the bottom up):

Cast on 40 sts, divide among three or four needles (your preference) and join, without twisting, in the round. If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.



Cuff FOR BOTH MITTENS:

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 8 rounds. – 40 sts

Next row; (k11, k2tog) 3 times, knit 1. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows; k3, p1, k12, p1, k20. – 37 sts

Distribute sts on 3 needles as follows: Needle 1 = first 19 sts, Needle 2 = 9 sts, Needle 3 = 9 sts. The first needle, with 19 sts, will hold the cable pattern for both the right- and left-hand mittens, but the cable pattern is reversed for each mitt. For the cabling, you may choose to use the 5th DPN as a cable needle.

 

Arm, Thumb Gusset, and Hand FOR THE LEFT MITTEN:

Each row remains at a total of 37 sts until thumb gusset.

First cable row: k3, p1, C12F, p1, k2, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18.

Next row: k3, p1, C12B, p1, k2, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18.

 

Thumb Gusset FOR LEFT MITTEN:

For the next row: k3, p1, C12F, p1, k2, k17, pm, M1, pm, k1. – 38 sts

K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to end.

Next rows,

A. K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to first mkr, sm, M1, k to last mkr, M1, sm, k1. (The first time you do this, you will end with 3 sts between markers.)

B. For the next 2 rows: K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to end.


**Here’s the tricky part!!! You need to repeat rows A & B until you have 15 sts between markers, ending on the increase row A. AND…


While repeating these rows A & B, you need to include a Cable row on Needle 1, just like before, on every 9th row. Alternate Cable Front and Cable Back rows. It helps to have a note nearby to keep track of which row you are on. Here is an example of what would follow: 


A(5 between mkrs) 
B

B

A(7 between mkrs)

B(CB)

B

A(9 between mkrs)

B

B

A(11 between mkrs)

B

B

A(13 between mkrs)

B(CF)

B
A(15 between mkrs)


Hand FOR LEFT MITTEN:

Next row: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to mkr, place the 15 thumb sts between mkrs on waste yarn or stitch holder, k1. – 37 sts

For the next 4 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts

K3, p1, CB12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts



Arm, Thumb Gusset, and Hand FOR THE RIGHT MITTEN:

Each row remains at a total of 37 sts until thumb gusset.

First cable row: k2, p1, C12B, p1, k3, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18.

Next row: k2, p1, C12F, p1, k3, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18.



Thumb Gusset FOR RIGHT MITTEN:

For the next row: k2, p1, C12B, p1, k3, k1, pm, M1, pm, k17. – 38 sts

K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to end.

Next rows,

A. K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to first mkr, sm, M1, k to last mkr, M1, sm, k17. (The first time you do this, you will end with 3 sts between markers.)

B. For the next 2 rows: K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to end.

**Remember to use opposite cable rows for the Right mitt. Here is an example of what would follow: 

A(5 between mkrs) 
B
B
A(7 between mkrs)
B(CF)
B
A(9 between mkrs)
B
B
A(11 between mkrs)
B
B
A(13 between mkrs)
B(CB)
B

A(15 between mkrs)



Hand FOR RIGHT MITTEN:

Next row: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k1, place the 15 thumb sts between mkrs on waste yarn or stitch holder, k17. – 37 sts

For the next 4 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts

K2, p1, CF12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts



Finish Hand FOR BOTH MITTENS:

(k11, kfb) 3 times, k1. – 40 sts

K2, p2 ribbing for 8 rows. – 40 sts

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Thumb FOR BOTH MITTENS:

Transfer the 15 sts from the waste yarn onto 3 needles. Join new yarn in-the-round and pick up 4 sts along the gaps. – 19 sts

Knit one round even until 2 sts remain, k2tog. – 18 sts

Knit 4 rounds in this ribbing; k2, p2 until last 2 sts of round, k1, p1. – 18 sts

Bind off loosely in pattern.



Finishing:

Weave in ends, using thumb ends to reinforce the sts around the thumb. Block if desired.



Key:

C12F = place the next 6 sts on the cable needle in front of the work, knit the next 6 sts and then knit the 6 sts from cable needle (cable appears to move to the left)

C12B = place the next 6 sts on the cable needle in back of the work, knit the next 6 sts and then knit the 6 sts from cable needle (cable appears to move to the right)

k = knit

k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
 

mkr = marker

M1 = make one stitch, a method of increasing

p = purl

pm = place marker
 

sm = slip marker

St, sts = stitch, stitches 

Pattern: Short Order Toddler Mittens

Short Order Toddler Mittens
By Erica Knudson

www.handmadebyerica.blogspot.com

One day, my little girl told me she needed some rainbow mittens. These mittens are the result of the order she put it.  It’s a great project for using up some scrap yarn, but can require a LOT of weaving in ends if you choose to do the whole rainbow, like I did. It’s definitely worth it in the end! 
Otherwise, you can choose whatever color combination you’re in the mood for, though I think a minimum of three colors would make them look the coolest. I’m looking forward to making a pair of these with only three colors soon.

Materials:

Worsted weight yarn in a bunch of colors – seven if you’re doing the whole rainbow (photo here in Vanna’s Choice) – You should only need 10 yards total of each strip color.  For the color of the cuff and thumbs, let’s say another 10 yards.  A little goes a long way on little hands!
Size 7 DPNs
Waste Yarn
Tapestry Needle
Stitch marker, if desired, to mark the end of the round

I’m going to make notes on color changes in the pattern. Adjust to whatever scheme you choose. For the example, shown in the photo, here are the colors I’ll reference;

Pink [A],   Orange [B],   Yellow [C],   Green [D],   Blue [E],   Indigo (dk. blue here)[F],   and Purple [G]

Instructions (from the Cuff [bottom] - up):

Cast on 24 sts in [A]. Join, without twisting, in the round.  If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 10 rounds. – 24 sts

Next row, knit around. – 24 sts

Hand, Setting the thumb sts, and Fingers/Shaping:

 

Repeating the chart above across each round, you will knit in stockinette for the remainder of the hand. 

Choose which color is the main color of each stripe (empty squares in chart) and which is the color for the flecks (black squares in chart), and then make sure to rotate the colors through as you move up.  You may see the photos of the finished mittens as reference. Please notice that every other row is simply knit around in the main color of that particular stripe.

It’s a lot of stranding, but hang in there!  The end result is awesome and it’s good to have the stranding close since little fingers aren’t used to navigating those flyers inside. Also, don’t cut your yarn too soon as you’ll use the main color from the previous section for the flecks of the next section. - Just trying to save you some sewing in the end.

So…

Starting in pattern, use [G] for the main color and [A] for the flecks. Complete 4 rows total, which is the same as once through the chart.

Then, using [F] for the main color and [G] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Then, using [E] for the main color and [F] for flecks, knit the first 3 rows of the chart. On the fourth row,

Right Mitten: Knit in pattern until 5 sts remain. Knit last 5 sts onto waste yarn, transfer the sts back to your left needle and knit those 5 sts in pattern. You should be at the end of the round.

Left  Mitten: Knit 7, knit next 5 sts onto waste yarn, transfer the sts back to your left needle and knit those 5 sts in pattern.  Then continue in pattern to the end of the round.

Sometimes I make the “right” and “left” versions of a mitten and find that they could have saved time and said, “make the second mitten identically.” If you’d rather save the hassle, just make both mittens the same way.  If you’re familiar with stranding or striping, you may be able to see the seam where the rounds change, which is why I made a right and left mitten. A toddler probably won’t mind either way.

Continuing on, using [D] for the main color and [E] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Then, using [C] for the main color and [D] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Using [B] for the main color and [C] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Finally, using Using [A] for the main color and [B] for flecks, and in pattern with the chart:

                Row 1: Knit 10, k2tog, k10, k2tog

                Row 2: Knit 3, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k4, k2tog

                Row 3: Knit 7, k2tog, k7, k2tog

                Row 4: (k2, k2tog) 4 times – 12 sts remaining

With [A], (k2tog) around. – 6 sts remaining

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, pass tail of yarn through all remaining 6 sts and pull tight. I like to pass it through all the stitches a second time, too.

Thumb:

Pick out waste yarn at space set for thumb and put them back onto needles – 5 sts at the top of the space and 5 sts at the bottom. Also, pick up one st from each side. – 12 sts total.
I then moved them around to be on three needles, 4 sts each, because my brain likes it that way.
With [F], knit around 8 rows. – 12 sts each

Next row: (k1, k2tog) 4 times. – 8 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, pass tail of yarn through all remaining 6 sts and pull tight. I like to pass it through all the stitches a second time, too.

Finishing:

Weave in ends, ends and more ends, reinforcing the sts or spaces around the thumb.

Block if desired.

Enjoy!

Key:
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
St, sts = stitch, stitches

My finished product, unblocked and un-stretched, fits a toddler or small child…

5.5-inch circumference around the hand and 4.5 inches from fingertip to the end of the palm. If it helps, the thumb fits a 1.5-inch length thumb.

 

A view indside...