Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts

Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts by Erica Knudson

 

 

 

 

 

I designed these Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts to compliment a hat from someone else’s pattern. There is one cable up the top of the arm & hand. The thumb gusset section requires a bit of concentration to count the increase rows and cable rows, but if you write down what row you’re on, you’re good to go! They are a size Women’s Medium.


Materials:

220 yards worsted weight yarn (photo here in Cascade Paints) This will most likely be too much yarn, but I wanted to give you a safe estimate.
Size 4mm (size 6) DPNs (5th needle used for cable, but you may also use a cable needle)
Stitch Markers
Waste yarn for holding stitches



Instructions (from the bottom up):

Cast on 40 sts, divide among three or four needles (your preference) and join, without twisting, in the round. If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.



Cuff FOR BOTH MITTENS:

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 8 rounds. – 40 sts

Next row; (k11, k2tog) 3 times, knit 1. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows; k3, p1, k12, p1, k20. – 37 sts

Distribute sts on 3 needles as follows: Needle 1 = first 19 sts, Needle 2 = 9 sts, Needle 3 = 9 sts. The first needle, with 19 sts, will hold the cable pattern for both the right- and left-hand mittens, but the cable pattern is reversed for each mitt. For the cabling, you may choose to use the 5th DPN as a cable needle.

 

Arm, Thumb Gusset, and Hand FOR THE LEFT MITTEN:

Each row remains at a total of 37 sts until thumb gusset.

First cable row: k3, p1, C12F, p1, k2, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18.

Next row: k3, p1, C12B, p1, k2, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18.

 

Thumb Gusset FOR LEFT MITTEN:

For the next row: k3, p1, C12F, p1, k2, k17, pm, M1, pm, k1. – 38 sts

K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to end.

Next rows,

A. K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to first mkr, sm, M1, k to last mkr, M1, sm, k1. (The first time you do this, you will end with 3 sts between markers.)

B. For the next 2 rows: K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to end.


**Here’s the tricky part!!! You need to repeat rows A & B until you have 15 sts between markers, ending on the increase row A. AND…


While repeating these rows A & B, you need to include a Cable row on Needle 1, just like before, on every 9th row. Alternate Cable Front and Cable Back rows. It helps to have a note nearby to keep track of which row you are on. Here is an example of what would follow: 


A(5 between mkrs) 
B

B

A(7 between mkrs)

B(CB)

B

A(9 between mkrs)

B

B

A(11 between mkrs)

B

B

A(13 between mkrs)

B(CF)

B
A(15 between mkrs)


Hand FOR LEFT MITTEN:

Next row: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to mkr, place the 15 thumb sts between mkrs on waste yarn or stitch holder, k1. – 37 sts

For the next 4 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts

K3, p1, CB12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts



Arm, Thumb Gusset, and Hand FOR THE RIGHT MITTEN:

Each row remains at a total of 37 sts until thumb gusset.

First cable row: k2, p1, C12B, p1, k3, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18.

Next row: k2, p1, C12F, p1, k3, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18.



Thumb Gusset FOR RIGHT MITTEN:

For the next row: k2, p1, C12B, p1, k3, k1, pm, M1, pm, k17. – 38 sts

K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to end.

Next rows,

A. K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to first mkr, sm, M1, k to last mkr, M1, sm, k17. (The first time you do this, you will end with 3 sts between markers.)

B. For the next 2 rows: K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to end.

**Remember to use opposite cable rows for the Right mitt. Here is an example of what would follow: 

A(5 between mkrs) 
B
B
A(7 between mkrs)
B(CF)
B
A(9 between mkrs)
B
B
A(11 between mkrs)
B
B
A(13 between mkrs)
B(CB)
B

A(15 between mkrs)



Hand FOR RIGHT MITTEN:

Next row: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k1, place the 15 thumb sts between mkrs on waste yarn or stitch holder, k17. – 37 sts

For the next 4 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts

K2, p1, CF12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts



Finish Hand FOR BOTH MITTENS:

(k11, kfb) 3 times, k1. – 40 sts

K2, p2 ribbing for 8 rows. – 40 sts

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Thumb FOR BOTH MITTENS:

Transfer the 15 sts from the waste yarn onto 3 needles. Join new yarn in-the-round and pick up 4 sts along the gaps. – 19 sts

Knit one round even until 2 sts remain, k2tog. – 18 sts

Knit 4 rounds in this ribbing; k2, p2 until last 2 sts of round, k1, p1. – 18 sts

Bind off loosely in pattern.



Finishing:

Weave in ends, using thumb ends to reinforce the sts around the thumb. Block if desired.



Key:

C12F = place the next 6 sts on the cable needle in front of the work, knit the next 6 sts and then knit the 6 sts from cable needle (cable appears to move to the left)

C12B = place the next 6 sts on the cable needle in back of the work, knit the next 6 sts and then knit the 6 sts from cable needle (cable appears to move to the right)

k = knit

k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
 

mkr = marker

M1 = make one stitch, a method of increasing

p = purl

pm = place marker
 

sm = slip marker

St, sts = stitch, stitches 

Early Morning Fingerless Mitts

As promised, here is my first knitting design. I said months ago that I'd be posting it "soon."  I guess "soon" is relative...

Early Morning Fingerless Mitts
By Erica Knudson

Early Morning Fingerless Mitts
By Erica Knudson

www.handmadebyerica.blogspot.com

I designed these mitts over a few early mornings after my son was born. They are a simple, stockinette, fingerless pair that can really show off the patterns in a variegated yarn. They are a size Women’s Medium, but made in stockinette and without fingers, they should fit a variety of sizes.

Materials:

150 yards worsted weight yarn (photo here in Cascade Paints)
Size 4mm DPNs
Stitch Markers
Waste yarn for holding stitches


Instructions (from the bottom up):

Cast on 40 sts, divide among three or four needles (your preference) and join, without twisting, in the round. If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.

Arm:

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 12 rounds. – 40 sts

Next row; work k2, p2 until 1 st from the end. Slip purlwise onto the R needle, (remove the end-of-round marker) replace purl st on L needle, and k2tog. – 39 sts

Knit 7 sts, *k2tog, k6* until the end of the row. – 35 sts

Knit in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 6 inches (about 27 rounds of stockinette). – 35 sts each row

Thumb Gusset:

Knit until 1 st remains, pm, cast on one, pm, k1. – 35 sts and 1 st between markers

Knit one round even.

***Knit to next marker, sm, M1, knit to next marker, M1, sm, k1. (The first time you do this, you will end with 3 sts between markers). Then, knit 2 rounds even.

Repeat from *** until you have 15 sts between markers. (I did not do the 2 even rounds after that.)

Hand:

Knit around once, placing the 15 thumb gusset sts (those between the markers) on to the waste yarn or stitch holder.

Knit even for 10 rounds.

Next row; k2, kfb, *k7, kfb. Work from * until the end of the row to end with 40 sts.

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 7 rounds (maybe longer if the wearer has long fingers).

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Thumb:

Transfer the 15 sts from the waste yarn onto 3 needles. Join new yarn in-the-round and pick up 4 sts along the gaps. – 19 sts

Knit one round even until 2 sts remain, k2tog. – 18 sts

Knit 3 rounds in ribbing; k2, p2 until last 2 sts of round, k1, p1.

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Finishing:
Weave in ends, using thumb ends to reinforce the sts around the thumb. Block if desired.

The second mitt is made identically.

Enjoy!

Key:
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
kfb= knit front & back, a method of increasing
L = left
M1 = make one stitch, a method of increasing
p = purl
pm = place marker
R= right
sm = slip marker
St, sts = stitch, stitches

Pattern Coming Soon!

I have made my first knit pattern ever and I'll be posting it soon! It's a pair of simple fingerless mitts that I'm calling...

"Early Morning Mitts" 

 



Yarn: Cascade Paints 100% Peruvian
Wool in "Grape."

I've been up during the wee hours lately with my new little boy, so I've had a lot of little moments here and there to get this accomplished. Before I post the pattern, I'm going to knit another pair and tweak things a little.

Keep your eyes peeled!

P.S.  I'd just like to say I'm really excited for Christmas cookies this year!

Santa Cruz Cowl and Mitts

Santa Cruz Cowl and Mitts
By Erica Knudson

The examples in the photos were made with scraps of aran and worsted weight yarn, a size I crochet hook and stitch markers. The cowl and mitts are crocheted in-the-round.

I used a border color, of which you’d want a full skein, as well as portions of skeins from several other colors – probably ¼ skein for each. If you use a single color, I’d recommend having two full skeins available.

I completed the cowl first, reserving some of each color to use later in the mitts, and I crocheted both mitts at the same time, switching back and forth every couple of rows to ensure there was even coloring. If you use various colors, I recommend crocheting in the ends as you go to avoid a lot of work at the end.


Santa Cruz Cowl

Santa Cruz Cowl
By Erica Knudson

Chain 100 + 2 for base chain = 102.

Join with sl st, being careful not to twist.

1. (Using border color, if desired) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each st around. Join. – 100

Place marker and move up with each round.

2. Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. – 100

3. (Starting with scrap yarn, if desired), Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. – 100

4. “Spaces Row”: Ch 2, hdc in first st, (ch1, skip 1 st, hdc in next st), repeat (…) through end of row. Join. – 50

5. “Spaces Row.” (see row 4 for instructions) Join. – 50

6. Ch2, hdc in each st around including ch sts. Join. – 100

For Rows 7 through 13: Repeat row 6.

If you’d like your finished cowl to be “taller” or appear thicker, you can add more Repeat Row 6 rows here.

14. “Spaces Row.” (see row 4 for instructions) Join. – 50

15. “Spaces Row.” (see row 4 for instructions) Join. – 50

16. Ch 2, hdc in each st around including ch sts. Join. – 100

For Rows 17 and 18: Repeat row 9 (using border color, if desired). Join. – 100

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Key Below

Santa Cruz Mitts

Santa Cruz Mitts
By Erica Knudson

Chain 26 + 2 for base chain = 28.

Join with sl st, being careful not to twist.

1. (Using border color, if desired ) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each st around. Join. – 26

Place marker and move up with each round.

2. Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. – 26

3. (Starting with scrap yarn, if desired), Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. – 26

4. “Spaces Row”: Ch 2, hdc in first st, (ch1, skip 1 st, hdc in next st), repeat (…) through end of row. Join. – 13

5. “Spaces Row.” (see row 4 for instructions) Join. – 13

6. Ch 2, hdc ineach st around including ch sts. Join. – 26

For Rows 7 through 13: Repeat row 6.

If you’d like your finished mitts to be “taller” or farther up the arm, you can add more Repeat Row 6 rows here.

14. Ch 2, hdc 22, turn. – 22

15. (Using border color, if desired) Ch 2, hdc 22, turn. – 22

16. Ch 2, hdc 22 ch 4, skip space and sl st to other side. – 22 – 4 chains = 26. Thumb hole is made.

17. Ch 2, hdc in each st around including ch sts. Join. – 26.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Key:
ch = chain

hdc = half double crochet

st = stitch

sl st = slip stitch


**This pattern is for personal use only. Thanks!