Projects Lately...

I found some ribbon on clearance (WAY on clearance), so I thought it would be fun to try and make some hair bows for my little girl.  It was fun!  A quick project is really nice sometimes. So, now I've bought actual clips, hot glue sticks, and a few more yards of ribbon.  After I look up how to make more bows online, I'll be making more!

 

 

After spinning a load of llama roving during the last year, I made this purse for a friend of mine who loves llamas.  It was the first time I sewed in a zipper, which was scary, but it turned out great!  I also put it a lining and was happy with the overall results...

 

This is sort of a side note, but for a long time, I've really wanted to prepare lobsters - starting with live ones!  It was a LOT of fun with some of our best friends. Here are the poor lobsters we proceeded to eat - yum!

 

In memory of the lobsters, I put a tribute on top of the apple pie I made for dessert.

 

 

I'm working on some crocheted cowls right now and hope to share a pattern or two soon.  Think - one skein...chunky yarn...big hook...fast project for Christmas gifts!

Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts

Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts by Erica Knudson

 

 

 

 

 

I designed these Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts to compliment a hat from someone else’s pattern. There is one cable up the top of the arm & hand. The thumb gusset section requires a bit of concentration to count the increase rows and cable rows, but if you write down what row you’re on, you’re good to go! They are a size Women’s Medium.


Materials:

220 yards worsted weight yarn (photo here in Cascade Paints) This will most likely be too much yarn, but I wanted to give you a safe estimate.
Size 4mm (size 6) DPNs (5th needle used for cable, but you may also use a cable needle)
Stitch Markers
Waste yarn for holding stitches



Instructions (from the bottom up):

Cast on 40 sts, divide among three or four needles (your preference) and join, without twisting, in the round. If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.



Cuff FOR BOTH MITTENS:

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 8 rounds. – 40 sts

Next row; (k11, k2tog) 3 times, knit 1. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows; k3, p1, k12, p1, k20. – 37 sts

Distribute sts on 3 needles as follows: Needle 1 = first 19 sts, Needle 2 = 9 sts, Needle 3 = 9 sts. The first needle, with 19 sts, will hold the cable pattern for both the right- and left-hand mittens, but the cable pattern is reversed for each mitt. For the cabling, you may choose to use the 5th DPN as a cable needle.

 

Arm, Thumb Gusset, and Hand FOR THE LEFT MITTEN:

Each row remains at a total of 37 sts until thumb gusset.

First cable row: k3, p1, C12F, p1, k2, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18.

Next row: k3, p1, C12B, p1, k2, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18.

 

Thumb Gusset FOR LEFT MITTEN:

For the next row: k3, p1, C12F, p1, k2, k17, pm, M1, pm, k1. – 38 sts

K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to end.

Next rows,

A. K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to first mkr, sm, M1, k to last mkr, M1, sm, k1. (The first time you do this, you will end with 3 sts between markers.)

B. For the next 2 rows: K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to end.


**Here’s the tricky part!!! You need to repeat rows A & B until you have 15 sts between markers, ending on the increase row A. AND…


While repeating these rows A & B, you need to include a Cable row on Needle 1, just like before, on every 9th row. Alternate Cable Front and Cable Back rows. It helps to have a note nearby to keep track of which row you are on. Here is an example of what would follow: 


A(5 between mkrs) 
B

B

A(7 between mkrs)

B(CB)

B

A(9 between mkrs)

B

B

A(11 between mkrs)

B

B

A(13 between mkrs)

B(CF)

B
A(15 between mkrs)


Hand FOR LEFT MITTEN:

Next row: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to mkr, place the 15 thumb sts between mkrs on waste yarn or stitch holder, k1. – 37 sts

For the next 4 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts

K3, p1, CB12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts



Arm, Thumb Gusset, and Hand FOR THE RIGHT MITTEN:

Each row remains at a total of 37 sts until thumb gusset.

First cable row: k2, p1, C12B, p1, k3, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18.

Next row: k2, p1, C12F, p1, k3, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18.



Thumb Gusset FOR RIGHT MITTEN:

For the next row: k2, p1, C12B, p1, k3, k1, pm, M1, pm, k17. – 38 sts

K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to end.

Next rows,

A. K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to first mkr, sm, M1, k to last mkr, M1, sm, k17. (The first time you do this, you will end with 3 sts between markers.)

B. For the next 2 rows: K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to end.

**Remember to use opposite cable rows for the Right mitt. Here is an example of what would follow: 

A(5 between mkrs) 
B
B
A(7 between mkrs)
B(CF)
B
A(9 between mkrs)
B
B
A(11 between mkrs)
B
B
A(13 between mkrs)
B(CB)
B

A(15 between mkrs)



Hand FOR RIGHT MITTEN:

Next row: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k1, place the 15 thumb sts between mkrs on waste yarn or stitch holder, k17. – 37 sts

For the next 4 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts

K2, p1, CF12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts



Finish Hand FOR BOTH MITTENS:

(k11, kfb) 3 times, k1. – 40 sts

K2, p2 ribbing for 8 rows. – 40 sts

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Thumb FOR BOTH MITTENS:

Transfer the 15 sts from the waste yarn onto 3 needles. Join new yarn in-the-round and pick up 4 sts along the gaps. – 19 sts

Knit one round even until 2 sts remain, k2tog. – 18 sts

Knit 4 rounds in this ribbing; k2, p2 until last 2 sts of round, k1, p1. – 18 sts

Bind off loosely in pattern.



Finishing:

Weave in ends, using thumb ends to reinforce the sts around the thumb. Block if desired.



Key:

C12F = place the next 6 sts on the cable needle in front of the work, knit the next 6 sts and then knit the 6 sts from cable needle (cable appears to move to the left)

C12B = place the next 6 sts on the cable needle in back of the work, knit the next 6 sts and then knit the 6 sts from cable needle (cable appears to move to the right)

k = knit

k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
 

mkr = marker

M1 = make one stitch, a method of increasing

p = purl

pm = place marker
 

sm = slip marker

St, sts = stitch, stitches 

Art Yarn Cowl

Art Yarn Cowl by Erica Knudson

Art Yarn Cowl

I designed this cowl because I had this bright art yarn for YEARS and didn’t know what to do with it. I started this experiment, and voila! I love how it turned out. It is knit in-the-round and is an adult Women’s Medium. It is easily adapted to other sizes by subtracting from or adding to the cast on in multiples of 6 sts.


Materials:

150 yards worsted weight yarn (photo here in Red Heart Soft) This will most likely be too much yarn, but I wanted to give you a safe estimate.
150 yards art yarn (Mine was as thin as thread in places, extra bulky in others.)
Size 13 circular needle
Stitch marker, if desired, to mark the end of the row.


Instructions (from the bottom up):

With both yarns held together, cast on 72 sts (or any multiple of 6), and join, without twisting, in the round. If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.

1. With both yarns held together, k around. – 72 sts

2. With both yarns, p around. – 72 sts

3. With both yarns, k around. – 72 sts

4. With both yarns, (k3, p3) around. – 72 sts

5. With art yarn only, (p3, k3) around. – 72 sts

6. With both yarns, (k3, p3) around. – 72 sts

7. With both yarns, k around. – 72 sts

8. Repeat row 7.

9. Repeat row 7.

10. Art yarn only, p around. – 72 sts

11. Art yarn only, (p2tog, p10) around. – 66 sts

12. Art yarn only, p around. – 66 sts

13. Both yarns, p around. – 66 sts

14. Repeat row 13.

15. Both yarns, (p2tog, p9) around. – 60 sts

16. Worsted yarn only, k around. – 60 sts

17. Repeat row 16.

18. Repeat row 16.

19. Both yarns, k around. – 60 sts

20. Repeat row 19.

21. Repeat row 19.

22. Repeat row 19.

23. Repeat row 19.

24. Repeat row 19.

25. Worsted yarn only, k around. – 60 sts

26. Art yarn only, p around. – 60 sts

27. Art yarn only, (p2tog, p8) around. – 54 sts

28. Both yarns, p around. 54 sts

29. Repeat row 28.

30. Both yarns, k around. – 54 sts

31. Repeat row 30.

32. Repeat row 30.

33. Repeat row 30.

34. Repeat row 30.

35. Worsted yarn only, k around. – 54 sts

36. Art yarn only, k around. – 54 sts

37. Both yarns, k around. – 54 sts

38. Repeat row 37.

39. Both yarns, (kfb, k8) around. – 60 sts

40. Both yarns, p around. – 60 sts

41. Both yarns, (p2tog, p8) around. – 54 sts

42. Art yarn only, p around. – 54 sts

43. Both yarns, p around. – 54 sts

Bind off VERY loosely in knit.

Finishing:

Weave in ends. Block if desired. Be artsy.


Key:

k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
kfb = a method of increasing
p = purl
p2tog = purl 2 together, a method of decreasing
sts = stitch, stitches

Pattern by Erica Knudson at handmadebyerica.blogspot.com. 
You can use this pattern for free, but please don't sell it as your own.

Pattern: Short Order Toddler Mittens

Short Order Toddler Mittens
By Erica Knudson

www.handmadebyerica.blogspot.com

One day, my little girl told me she needed some rainbow mittens. These mittens are the result of the order she put it.  It’s a great project for using up some scrap yarn, but can require a LOT of weaving in ends if you choose to do the whole rainbow, like I did. It’s definitely worth it in the end! 
Otherwise, you can choose whatever color combination you’re in the mood for, though I think a minimum of three colors would make them look the coolest. I’m looking forward to making a pair of these with only three colors soon.

Materials:

Worsted weight yarn in a bunch of colors – seven if you’re doing the whole rainbow (photo here in Vanna’s Choice) – You should only need 10 yards total of each strip color.  For the color of the cuff and thumbs, let’s say another 10 yards.  A little goes a long way on little hands!
Size 7 DPNs
Waste Yarn
Tapestry Needle
Stitch marker, if desired, to mark the end of the round

I’m going to make notes on color changes in the pattern. Adjust to whatever scheme you choose. For the example, shown in the photo, here are the colors I’ll reference;

Pink [A],   Orange [B],   Yellow [C],   Green [D],   Blue [E],   Indigo (dk. blue here)[F],   and Purple [G]

Instructions (from the Cuff [bottom] - up):

Cast on 24 sts in [A]. Join, without twisting, in the round.  If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 10 rounds. – 24 sts

Next row, knit around. – 24 sts

Hand, Setting the thumb sts, and Fingers/Shaping:

 

Repeating the chart above across each round, you will knit in stockinette for the remainder of the hand. 

Choose which color is the main color of each stripe (empty squares in chart) and which is the color for the flecks (black squares in chart), and then make sure to rotate the colors through as you move up.  You may see the photos of the finished mittens as reference. Please notice that every other row is simply knit around in the main color of that particular stripe.

It’s a lot of stranding, but hang in there!  The end result is awesome and it’s good to have the stranding close since little fingers aren’t used to navigating those flyers inside. Also, don’t cut your yarn too soon as you’ll use the main color from the previous section for the flecks of the next section. - Just trying to save you some sewing in the end.

So…

Starting in pattern, use [G] for the main color and [A] for the flecks. Complete 4 rows total, which is the same as once through the chart.

Then, using [F] for the main color and [G] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Then, using [E] for the main color and [F] for flecks, knit the first 3 rows of the chart. On the fourth row,

Right Mitten: Knit in pattern until 5 sts remain. Knit last 5 sts onto waste yarn, transfer the sts back to your left needle and knit those 5 sts in pattern. You should be at the end of the round.

Left  Mitten: Knit 7, knit next 5 sts onto waste yarn, transfer the sts back to your left needle and knit those 5 sts in pattern.  Then continue in pattern to the end of the round.

Sometimes I make the “right” and “left” versions of a mitten and find that they could have saved time and said, “make the second mitten identically.” If you’d rather save the hassle, just make both mittens the same way.  If you’re familiar with stranding or striping, you may be able to see the seam where the rounds change, which is why I made a right and left mitten. A toddler probably won’t mind either way.

Continuing on, using [D] for the main color and [E] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Then, using [C] for the main color and [D] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Using [B] for the main color and [C] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Finally, using Using [A] for the main color and [B] for flecks, and in pattern with the chart:

                Row 1: Knit 10, k2tog, k10, k2tog

                Row 2: Knit 3, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k4, k2tog

                Row 3: Knit 7, k2tog, k7, k2tog

                Row 4: (k2, k2tog) 4 times – 12 sts remaining

With [A], (k2tog) around. – 6 sts remaining

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, pass tail of yarn through all remaining 6 sts and pull tight. I like to pass it through all the stitches a second time, too.

Thumb:

Pick out waste yarn at space set for thumb and put them back onto needles – 5 sts at the top of the space and 5 sts at the bottom. Also, pick up one st from each side. – 12 sts total.
I then moved them around to be on three needles, 4 sts each, because my brain likes it that way.
With [F], knit around 8 rows. – 12 sts each

Next row: (k1, k2tog) 4 times. – 8 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, pass tail of yarn through all remaining 6 sts and pull tight. I like to pass it through all the stitches a second time, too.

Finishing:

Weave in ends, ends and more ends, reinforcing the sts or spaces around the thumb.

Block if desired.

Enjoy!

Key:
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
St, sts = stitch, stitches

My finished product, unblocked and un-stretched, fits a toddler or small child…

5.5-inch circumference around the hand and 4.5 inches from fingertip to the end of the palm. If it helps, the thumb fits a 1.5-inch length thumb.

 

A view indside...

Anja's Baby Hat

By Erica Knudson


This pattern is for babies 0-3 months. ** I've edited this page to add notes for making larger sizes -  at the bottom!

Materials used: Size H hook, worsted weight yarn, and a stitch marker to mark the start of each new row (if desired).

Anja's Baby Hat
By Erica Knudson

1. Chain 7 + 2 = 9 for base chain.

2. Dc in third ch from hook and across – 7

3. Turn, sl st across – 7

4. Turn, ch 2, dc in back loops across – 7


Rows 5 – 42: Repeat rows 3 & 4 until 13 inches long (21 dc rows total).


43. Sl st both ends of band together with RS facing out.

44. Sc 42 sts around edge of brim (in the same color as the brim). Sl st to join. – 42

45. Ch 2, dc around, sl st to join the round. Sl st to join. – 42

46. Repeat row 45 – 42

47. Repeat row 45 – 42

48. Ch 2, (dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog) around. Sl st to join. – 36

49. Ch 2, dc around. Sl st to join. – 36

50. Ch2, (dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog) around. Sl st to join. – 30

51. Ch2, (dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog) around. Sl st to join. – 24

52. Ch2, (dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog) around. Sl st to join. – 18

53. Ch2, (dc in next st, dc2tog) around. Sl st to join. – 12

54. (dc2tog) around Sl st to join. – 60

55. Dc2tog around until satisfied with the closure, between 3 and 5 times.

56. Fasten off. Weave in ends.


Key:

ch = chain
dc = double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch
RS = right side
dc2tog = double crochet 2 together, a method of decreasing


**Please do not sell this pattern.

**If you wish to make a larger size,  you'll find this link helpful:  

http://anniespictureperfect.blogspot.com/2013/01/how-to-properly-size-crochet-hats-chart.html?m=1 

For example,  if you'd want a 3-6 month size,  you'd  make your band 15 inches long.  You'd seam it according to the pattern and then pick up about 49 single crochet stitches  around for the body of the hat.  For this size,  the height of the hat would need to be at least 6 inches finished to cover those little ears.  When you can see you'd reach that height including the decreases,  just decrease evenly  until you reach the tip. I liked this hat just a little longer and pointier,  but you'll see what you like when you're making it.   

Santa Cruz Cowl and Mitts

Santa Cruz Cowl and Mitts
By Erica Knudson

The examples in the photos were made with scraps of aran and worsted weight yarn, a size I crochet hook and stitch markers. The cowl and mitts are crocheted in-the-round.

I used a border color, of which you’d want a full skein, as well as portions of skeins from several other colors – probably ¼ skein for each. If you use a single color, I’d recommend having two full skeins available.

I completed the cowl first, reserving some of each color to use later in the mitts, and I crocheted both mitts at the same time, switching back and forth every couple of rows to ensure there was even coloring. If you use various colors, I recommend crocheting in the ends as you go to avoid a lot of work at the end.


Santa Cruz Cowl

Santa Cruz Cowl
By Erica Knudson

Chain 100 + 2 for base chain = 102.

Join with sl st, being careful not to twist.

1. (Using border color, if desired) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each st around. Join. – 100

Place marker and move up with each round.

2. Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. – 100

3. (Starting with scrap yarn, if desired), Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. – 100

4. “Spaces Row”: Ch 2, hdc in first st, (ch1, skip 1 st, hdc in next st), repeat (…) through end of row. Join. – 50

5. “Spaces Row.” (see row 4 for instructions) Join. – 50

6. Ch2, hdc in each st around including ch sts. Join. – 100

For Rows 7 through 13: Repeat row 6.

If you’d like your finished cowl to be “taller” or appear thicker, you can add more Repeat Row 6 rows here.

14. “Spaces Row.” (see row 4 for instructions) Join. – 50

15. “Spaces Row.” (see row 4 for instructions) Join. – 50

16. Ch 2, hdc in each st around including ch sts. Join. – 100

For Rows 17 and 18: Repeat row 9 (using border color, if desired). Join. – 100

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Key Below

Santa Cruz Mitts

Santa Cruz Mitts
By Erica Knudson

Chain 26 + 2 for base chain = 28.

Join with sl st, being careful not to twist.

1. (Using border color, if desired ) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each st around. Join. – 26

Place marker and move up with each round.

2. Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. – 26

3. (Starting with scrap yarn, if desired), Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. – 26

4. “Spaces Row”: Ch 2, hdc in first st, (ch1, skip 1 st, hdc in next st), repeat (…) through end of row. Join. – 13

5. “Spaces Row.” (see row 4 for instructions) Join. – 13

6. Ch 2, hdc ineach st around including ch sts. Join. – 26

For Rows 7 through 13: Repeat row 6.

If you’d like your finished mitts to be “taller” or farther up the arm, you can add more Repeat Row 6 rows here.

14. Ch 2, hdc 22, turn. – 22

15. (Using border color, if desired) Ch 2, hdc 22, turn. – 22

16. Ch 2, hdc 22 ch 4, skip space and sl st to other side. – 22 – 4 chains = 26. Thumb hole is made.

17. Ch 2, hdc in each st around including ch sts. Join. – 26.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Key:
ch = chain

hdc = half double crochet

st = stitch

sl st = slip stitch


**This pattern is for personal use only. Thanks!

Toddler Striped Shrug

Toddler Striped Shrug
Erica Knudson

The example in the photo was made with worsted weight yarn and a size I crochet hook. (I changed yarn color for each stripe and used a single color for the border.)

Chain 70 + 2 for base chain – 72

1. Dc in third ch from hook and each st across – 70

2. Turn, ch 2, dc in each st across – 70

3. Repeat row 2 twelve (12) more times for a total of fourteen (14) rows or stripes.

4. Border:

Continue, as in last rows, with a ch 2 and dc across, but continue on around the entire border of the shrug. *I crocheted dc along the long edges and hdc along the short edges, which will be the arm holes. So, in each corner, I used 3 hdc to make it smooth.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

5. Seams:

Bring together long sides of rectangle with the “right side” facing out. One side at a time, on the long edges you brought together, sc 12 sts in from the end towards the middle. (Do this on the other side, also.)

Sl st, fasten off, and weave in ends. *I recommend using the same color to seam that you used in the border.


Key:

ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
st = stitch
sl st = silp stitch


**This pattern is for personal use only.

It's Been a While

I just realized I haven't made a post in almost a month. Sorry!

In early February, I discovered that I'm expecting.  Yipee! The first few weeks of pregnancy have found me pretty tired, and I haven't really crocheted or knit in weeks. I do have a couple of projects I'd like to wrap up, though, including making some Chemo Caps for a volunteer project I found on Ravelry: http://www.skrapyram.com/2012/01/please-join-me-for-special-project.html. The photo here is one of the hats I finished for the project.






Since I don't have any new patterns to share, I thought I'd post some recent photos:

By Erica Knudson

By Erica Knudson

By Erica Knudson

(Mississippi River)
By Erica Knudson

Pattern: Bulky Yarn Baby Hat



Bulky Yarn Baby Hat
Erica Knudson

I'm really happy with how this one turned out.  The little "brim" is the perfect accent to take this from a plain hat to a unique one.

It's also great for using up some of that soft, bulky yarn that many of us have laying around.

Hope you enjoy!


Bulky Yarn Baby Hat
By Erica Knudson

This pattern is a simple hat for babies 6-12 months and can be made for a boy or girl. It is crocheted in the round.

Materials used: Size K hook, bulky weight yarn (3.5 oz skein is more than enough), and stitch markers. Optional: buttons, sewing needle and thread.

Hat:
Start with an adjustable ring.

1. Hdc 8 into loop. – 8

Place st marker and move up with each round.

2. (2hdc) in each st across – 16

3. (2hdc in next st, hdc in next st) repeat around – 24

4. (2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts) repeat around – 32

5. (2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts) repeat around – 40

6. (2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts) repeat around – 48

7. Hdc around – 48

8. Hdc around (Same as Row 7) – 48

9. Hdc around (Same as Row 7) – 48

10. Hdc around (Same as Row 7) – 48

11. Hdc around (Same as Row 7) – 48

12. In front loops only, sc around – 48

Place st marker at stitch 24, halfway across the hat. The two stitch markers you now have in place will mark each end of the “brim”.

13. In both loops, 4 sc, 2 hdc, 12 dc, 2 hdc, 4 sc

14. Accent: Sl st in next st, ch 1, turn (so that the “right side” or outside of the hat is facing you and the top of the hat is downward), sc across loops that were left from row 12 (when you worked in the front loops only) which is about 24 sts across), ch 1, sl st to edge of hat to make it look like the other side.

15. Fasten off and eave in ends.

16. Optional: Attach buttons using sewing needle and thread.



Key:

ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch
sc = single crochet

**Please do not sell this pattern.

In Case it's a Girl... Attach a Flower

Making a gift for someone who doesn't know what they're having?  This is a spin-off of an idea I saw called, "In case of girl, attach bow." I can't seem to find that pattern again, but if I do, I'll come back and link it.

Anyway, the trick here is to make something that could work for a boy

...and then making a nice flower that the mom-to-be can attach easily if she finds she's had a girl.

This is a fun way to get out of the normal colors we sometimes feel stuck with when we don't know whether it's a boy or girl - not that I have anything against those colors.  It's just nice to have choices! It also makes the piece a little more unique because it is given in pieces and you can make a neat little card if you want (see pattern below).

In Case it’s a Girl… Attach a Flower
By Erica Knudson

Materials Used: The example flower in the photo was made with worsted weight yarn, size J crochet hook and a blunt needle.

Larger Flower:

1. Ch 4, sl st in first ch to make ring.

2. 12 sc in ring, sl st to join.

3. *Ch 3, skip one st, sl st in next st* around. At end, join with sl st.

4. Ch 1, *7 sc in ch-3 space* around. At end, join with sl st.

5. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Smaller Flower:

6. Ch 4, sl st in first ch to make ring.

7. 12 sc in ring, sl st to join.

8. *Ch 3, skip one st, sl st in next st* around. At end, join with sl st.

9. Fasten off and weave in ends

Finishing:

10. Fasten flowers together with coordinating yarn and blunt needle.

11. Attach 10-12 inch piece of coordinating yarn to back of flower piece.

12. Include a note or tag – “In Case it’s a Girl… Attach a Flower”

Key:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
*…* = repeat

**Please don’t sell this pattern.

Baby Ripple Hat

Baby Ripple Hat

Baby Ripple Hat
Erica Knudson

By Erica Knudson

This pattern is a simple but textured hat for babies 0-6 months and 6-12 months (more sizes coming soon!). It can be made for a boy or girl by choosing one finishing row or the other (explained below).

Materials used: Size J hook, worsted weight yarn, and a stitch marker.

All sizes start the same and you will see instructions for varying sizes in the pattern.

Start with an adjustable ring.

1. Hdc 8 into loop. – 8

Place st marker and move up with each round.

2. In the front loops only, (2hdc) in each st across – 16

3. In the front loops only, (2hdc in next st, hdc in next st) repeat around – 24

4. In the front loops only, (2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts) repeat around – 32

5. In the front loops only, (2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts) repeat around – 40

6. In the front loops only, (2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts) repeat around – 48
**For size 0-6 months, proceed to step 9. For larger size, continue with step 7.

7. In the front loops only, (2hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts) repeat around – 56

8. In the front loops only, hdc around.

9. In the front loops only, hdc around.

10. In the front loops only, hdc around.

11. In the front loops only, hdc around.

12. For 0-6 month size: In the front loops only, (hdc2tog, hdc in next 4) – 40

For 6-12 month size: In the front loops only, (hdc2tog, hdc in next 5) – 48

13. In both loops, hdc around.

14. In both loops, hdc around, sl st in last st.

“Finishing Row”(could be changed to a standard sc around for boys):

15. (Ch 2,sl st in next st) around. Sl st to end.

16. Fasten off and eave in ends.

**In the photo here, the pink and white hat was made using the Finishing Row.  The smaller multicolor hat was finished using a single crochet border only.

Key:

ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch
sc = single crochet

**Please do not sell this pattern.

Ocean Shrug

Ocean Shrug
By Erica Knudson

This is a simple but elegant shrug that is great for a beginner. This pattern is for an adult size medium but there is a lot of flexibility with stitches and sizing if you’d need it in another size. The Ocean Shrug here was made with a half double crochet herringbone stitch from the book, Basic Crochet Stitches by Harmony Guides. If you aren’t familiar with the herringbone part of the stitch, you can use a standard half double crochet.


Ocean Shrug

Erica Knudson

 

Materials needed: 3 medium-sized skeins DK weight yarn and a size P (11.50mm) hook.

Chain 80

1. Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each st across. Ch 2, turn (will be about 29 inches “wide”).

2. Herringbone hdc or hdc across row. Ch 2, turn.

3. Now, repeat row 2 until piece measures 24½ inches “tall”.

4. Sc around entire edge and join with sl st (placing 3 stitches in each corner will help the work lay flat).

5. Repeat Row 3, and again join with a sl st.

6. Fasten off.

Now you should have a rectangle that is about 29 inches “wide” and 24½ inches “tall”.

7. Fold the work in half one time from left to right, so it measures 14½ inches by 24½ inches.

8. Next, on each side, sl stitch up short edges join the halves only about 7½ inches from the corner. The hole left will be for the arms (so the rows of stitches will actually appear to run vertically when you wear the shrug).

9. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Work is folded in half and seamed part way
up the side. Space is left for arm hole.

Key:
hdc = half double crochet
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
*…* = repeat

**Please don’t sell this pattern.

Coming Down the Pipes

I just wanted to check in to say that I'll have a couple new patterns posted by the end of next week:

Ocean Shrug
Erica Knudson



the Ocean Shrug

     a very simple crochet shrug that is great for a beginner

and the Baby Ripple Hat
     a little textured baby hat, great for solids or stripes
     (photos coming with the pattern)


Until later,
Erica

Vintage Toddler Hat



Vintage Toddler Hat
Erica Knudson

Vintage Toddler Hat
By Erica Knudson

This 20’s-inspired hat is crocheted in-the-round and was made with Aran weight yarn, a J hook, 2 stitch markers, and blunt needle (buttons, sewing needle & thread optional). The flap is crocheted back-and-forth.

Start with an adjustable ring.
1. 8 hdc into ring – 8
Place stitch marker and move up with each round.2. 2 hdc into each st around – 16
3. (2hdc in next, hdc in next) around – 24
4. (2hdc in next, hdc in next 2) around – 32
5. (2hdc in next, hdc in next 3) around – 40
6. (2hdc in next, hdc in next 4) around – 48
7. (2hdc in next, hdc in next 5) around – 56
8. (2hdc in next, hdc in next 6) around – 64
9. (2hdc in next, hdc in next 7) around – 72
10. Hdc around – 72
11. Hdc around – 72
12. Hdc around – 72
13. Hdc around – 72
14. Hdc around – 72
15. Hdc around – 72
16. Hdc around – 72
17. Hdc around – 72
You could fasten off hear for a simple boys’ beanie (without flap).


Vintage Toddler Hat
Erica Knudson


 Flap:

Place the second stitch marker in the 36th stitch, half way around the hat.18. Hdc in next 18 sts, dc in next 14 sts, hdc in next 3 sts. Turn.
19. Skip 1 st, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 14 sts, hdc in next 17 sts (to st marker).
20. Skip 1 st, hdc in next 16 sts, dc in next 14 sts, hdc in next, sl st. Turn.
21. Skip 1 st, hdc in next st, dc in next 17 sts, hdc in next 11 sts, sl st.
22. Continue on to sc around the entire hat.
23. Fasten off and weave in ends.
24. Sew flap up with yarn and attach buttons if desired.

Key:
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch

**Please note handmadebyerica.blogspot.com on your finished items and do not sell this pattern.

The Hats Are Coming!

I've been in "hat mode" lately, so I thought I'd share that I'll have a couple new hat pattens next week.

Don't you like how fast you can get a hat finished?