April 25, 2013

Pattern: Short Order Toddler Mittens



Short Order Toddler Mittens
By Erica Knudson
One day, my little girl told me she needed some rainbow mittens. These mittens are the result of the order she put it.  It’s a great project for using up some scrap yarn, but can require a LOT of weaving in ends if you choose to do the whole rainbow, like I did. It’s definitely worth it in the end! 
Otherwise, you can choose whatever color combination you’re in the mood for, though I think a minimum of three colors would make them look the coolest. I’m looking forward to making a pair of these with only three colors soon.

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn in a bunch of colors – seven if you’re doing the whole rainbow (photo here in Vanna’s Choice) – You should only need 10 yards total of each strip color.  For the color of the cuff and thumbs, let’s say another 10 yards.  A little goes a long way on little hands!
Size 7 DPNs
Waste Yarn
Tapestry Needle

Stitch marker, if desired, to mark the end of the round

I’m going to make notes on color changes in the pattern. Adjust to whatever scheme you choose. For the example, shown in the photo, here are the colors I’ll reference;

Pink [A],   Orange [B],   Yellow [C],   Green [D],   Blue [E],   Indigo (dk. blue here)[F],   and Purple [G]

Instructions (from the Cuff [bottom] - up):
Cast on 24 sts in [A]. Join, without twisting, in the round.  If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 10 rounds. – 24 sts

Next row, knit around. – 24 sts

Hand, Setting the thumb sts, and Fingers/Shaping:

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
Repeating the chart above across each round, you will knit in stockinette for the remainder of the hand. 

Choose which color is the main color of each stripe (empty squares in chart) and which is the color for the flecks (black squares in chart), and then make sure to rotate the colors through as you move up.  You may see the photos of the finished mittens as reference. Please notice that every other row is simply knit around in the main color of that particular stripe.

It’s a lot of stranding, but hang in there!  The end result is awesome and it’s good to have the stranding close since little fingers aren’t used to navigating those flyers inside. Also, don’t cut your yarn too soon as you’ll use the main color from the previous section for the flecks of the next section. - Just trying to save you some sewing in the end.

So…

Starting in pattern, use [G] for the main color and [A] for the flecks. Complete 4 rows total, which is the same as once through the chart.

Then, using [F] for the main color and [G] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Then, using [E] for the main color and [F] for flecks, knit the first 3 rows of the chart. On the fourth row,

Right Mitten: Knit in pattern until 5 sts remain. Knit last 5 sts onto waste yarn, transfer the sts back to your left needle and knit those 5 sts in pattern. You should be at the end of the round.

Left  Mitten: Knit 7, knit next 5 sts onto waste yarn, transfer the sts back to your left needle and knit those 5 sts in pattern.  Then continue in pattern to the end of the round.

Sometimes I make the “right” and “left” versions of a mitten and find that they could have saved time and said, “make the second mitten identically.” If you’d rather save the hassle, just make both mittens the same way.  If you’re familiar with stranding or striping, you may be able to see the seam where the rounds change, which is why I made a right and left mitten. A toddler probably won’t mind either way.
Continuing on, using [D] for the main color and [E] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Then, using [C] for the main color and [D] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Using [B] for the main color and [C] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Finally, using Using [A] for the main color and [B] for flecks, and in pattern with the chart:

                Row 1: Knit 10, k2tog, k10, k2tog

                Row 2: Knit 3, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k4, k2tog

                Row 3: Knit 7, k2tog, k7, k2tog

                Row 4: (k2, k2tog) 4 times – 12 sts remaining

With [A], (k2tog) around. – 6 sts remaining
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, pass tail of yarn through all remaining 6 sts and pull tight. I like to pass it through all the stitches a second time, too.

Thumb:
Pick out waste yarn at space set for thumb and put them back onto needles – 5 sts at the top of the space and 5 sts at the bottom. Also, pick up one st from each side. – 12 sts total.
I then moved them around to be on three needles, 4 sts each, because my brain likes it that way.
With [F], knit around 8 rows. – 12 sts each

Next row: (k1, k2tog) 4 times. – 8 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, pass tail of yarn through all remaining 6 sts and pull tight. I like to pass it through all the stitches a second time, too.

Finishing:

Weave in ends, ends and more ends, reinforcing the sts or spaces around the thumb.

Block if desired.

Enjoy!


Key:
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
St, sts = stitch, stitches

My finished product, unblocked and un-stretched, fits a toddler or small child…

5.5-inch circumference around the hand and 4.5 inches from fingertip to the end of the palm. If it helps, the thumb fits a 1.5-inch length thumb.
 
A view indside...

Pattern: Baby Nolan's Hat


Baby Nolan’s Hat


By Erica Knudson


This is just a quickly-knitted baby hat, made in-the-round, that’s easily personalized with stripes, a monogram, shape, or simpl
y with a favorite color. I believe it is a 3-6 month size.

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn (photo here in Vanna’s Choice) – Half a skein should be enough for this size
Size 6 DPNs
Tapestry Needle

Stitch marker, if desired, to mark the end of the round
Graph paper, if desired, to design monogram or shape for stranding
Yarn for monogram or design


Instructions (from the bottom up):
Cast on 60 sts. Join, without twisting, in the round.  If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 8 rounds. – 60 sts
Next row, (k28, k2tog) twice. – 58 sts

Knit around. – 58 sts

Knit 15 rows in stockinette (knit around, every row), incorporating your monogram if desired. – 58 sts

I started my chart after 2 plain rows of stockinette. I simply completed one row of the chart and finished each row by knitting around in the main color.
Here is an example of a monogram, the chart I used for the letter “N”:

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
Next row: (k2tog, k13, k2tog, k12) twice. – 54 sts
Knit around. – 54 sts

(k7, k2tog) around. – 48 sts

Knit around. – 48 sts

(k2, k2tog) around. – 36 sts

Knit around. – 36 sts

(k2, k2tog) around. – 27 sts

Knit around. – 27 sts

(k1, k2tog) around. – 18 sts

(k1, k2tog) around. – 12 sts

(k2tog) around. – 6 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, pass tail of yarn through all remaining 6 sts and pull tight. I like to pass it through all the stitches a second time, too.

Finishing:
Weave in ends.  Block if desired.

Enjoy!

Key:
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
St, sts = stitch, stitches

My finished product, unblocked and un-stretched, was 6 inches tall and about 12” circumference at the brim.

April 3, 2013

Early Morning Fingerless Mitts

As promised, here is my first knitting design. I said months ago that I'd be posting it "soon."  I guess "soon" is relative...


Early Morning Fingerless Mitts
By Erica Knudson
Early Morning Fingerless Mitts
By Erica Knudson

www.handmadebyerica.blogspot.com

I designed these mitts over a few early mornings after my son was born. They are a simple, stockinette, fingerless pair that can really show off the patterns in a variegated yarn. They are a size Women’s Medium, but made in stockinette and without fingers, they should fit a variety of sizes.

Materials:

150 yards worsted weight yarn (photo here in Cascade Paints)
Size 4mm DPNs
Stitch Markers
Waste yarn for holding stitches


Instructions (from the bottom up):

Cast on 40 sts, divide among three or four needles (your preference) and join, without twisting, in the round. If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.

Arm:

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 12 rounds. – 40 sts

Next row; work k2, p2 until 1 st from the end. Slip purlwise onto the R needle, (remove the end-of-round marker) replace purl st on L needle, and k2tog. – 39 sts

Knit 7 sts, *k2tog, k6* until the end of the row. – 35 sts

Knit in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 6 inches (about 27 rounds of stockinette). – 35 sts each row

Thumb Gusset:

Knit until 1 st remains, pm, cast on one, pm, k1. – 35 sts and 1 st between markers

Knit one round even.

***Knit to next marker, sm, M1, knit to next marker, M1, sm, k1. (The first time you do this, you will end with 3 sts between markers). Then, knit 2 rounds even.

Repeat from *** until you have 15 sts between markers. (I did not do the 2 even rounds after that.)

Hand:

Knit around once, placing the 15 thumb gusset sts (those between the markers) on to the waste yarn or stitch holder.

Knit even for 10 rounds.

Next row; k2, kfb, *k7, kfb. Work from * until the end of the row to end with 40 sts.

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 7 rounds (maybe longer if the wearer has long fingers).

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Thumb:

Transfer the 15 sts from the waste yarn onto 3 needles. Join new yarn in-the-round and pick up 4 sts along the gaps. – 19 sts

Knit one round even until 2 sts remain, k2tog. – 18 sts

Knit 3 rounds in ribbing; k2, p2 until last 2 sts of round, k1, p1.

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Finishing:
Weave in ends, using thumb ends to reinforce the sts around the thumb. Block if desired.

The second mitt is made identically.

Enjoy!


Key:
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
kfb= knit front & back, a method of increasing
L = left
M1 = make one stitch, a method of increasing
p = purl
pm = place marker
R= right
sm = slip marker
St, sts = stitch, stitches