November 17, 2013

Projects Lately...

I found some ribbon on clearance (WAY on clearance), so I thought it would be fun to try and make some hair bows for my little girl.  It was fun!  A quick project is really nice sometimes. So, now I've bought actual clips, hot glue sticks, and a few more yards of ribbon.  After I look up how to make more bows online, I'll be making more!
 
 
After spinning a load of llama roving during the last year, I made this purse for a friend of mine who loves llamas.  It was the first time I sewed in a zipper, which was scary, but it turned out great!  I also put it a lining and was happy with the overall results...
 

This is sort of a side note, but for a long time, I've really wanted to prepare lobsters - starting with live ones!  It was a LOT of fun with some of our best friends. Here are the poor lobsters we proceeded to eat - yum!

 
In memory of the lobsters, I put a tribute on top of the apple pie I made for dessert.
 
 
I'm working on some crocheted cowls right now and hope to share a pattern or two soon.  Think - one skein...chunky yarn...big hook...fast project for Christmas gifts!

September 16, 2013

"Recycled Crayons"

We made some new crayons using old crayons, thanks to the help of this blog post at Lil Blue Boo:
http://www.lilblueboo.com/2012/03/recycled-crayons-a-tutorial.html

We had WAY more broken and unwrapped crayons than I thought.  For this entire project, I only used about half of what I ended up with here.


These silicone ice cube trays come in fun shapes and can be found for only $1! I also put foil underneath on the cookie sheet since it was one of my "good" ones. Don't forget to preheat the oven. I used the lowest setting on mine, which was "warm".


Little Miss R just had to peel more wrappers off. It was good help since she really wanted pink crayons.

 
I used a sharp knife and carefully cut the crayons into very small pieces. I think next time I try slightly larger pieces to see how the finished product looks.  They key, either way I think, is to put colors together that can go together.  Too many colors = brown crayons. Also, the washable ones leave a white wax on the top of each crayon, so I tried to mix washable with regular.


 
I tried to heap a pile in each spot, but in the end I could have used even more.  They really melt down, so pile it in there!

 
I checked on these often and left them in the oven until I couldn't see any more un-melted chunks. Once they were all liquid, I SLOWLY put the cookie sheet on  cooling rack until they were...
 
CRAYONS!
 
 

September 1, 2013

Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts

Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts by Erica Knudson
 
 
 

 

 
I designed these Wavy Cable Fingerless Mitts to compliment a hat from someone else’s pattern. There is one cable up the top of the arm & hand. The thumb gusset section requires a bit of concentration to count the increase rows and cable rows, but if you write down what row you’re on, you’re good to go! They are a size Women’s Medium.


Materials:

220 yards worsted weight yarn (photo here in Cascade Paints) This will most likely be too much yarn, but I wanted to give you a safe estimate.
Size 4mm (size 6) DPNs (5th needle used for cable, but you may also use a cable needle)
Stitch Markers
Waste yarn for holding stitches



Instructions (from the bottom up):

Cast on 40 sts, divide among three or four needles (your preference) and join, without twisting, in the round. If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.



Cuff FOR BOTH MITTENS:

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 8 rounds. – 40 sts

Next row; (k11, k2tog) 3 times, knit 1. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows; k3, p1, k12, p1, k20. – 37 sts

Distribute sts on 3 needles as follows: Needle 1 = first 19 sts, Needle 2 = 9 sts, Needle 3 = 9 sts. The first needle, with 19 sts, will hold the cable pattern for both the right- and left-hand mittens, but the cable pattern is reversed for each mitt. For the cabling, you may choose to use the 5th DPN as a cable needle.
 


Arm, Thumb Gusset, and Hand FOR THE LEFT MITTEN:

Each row remains at a total of 37 sts until thumb gusset.

First cable row: k3, p1, C12F, p1, k2, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18.

Next row: k3, p1, C12B, p1, k2, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18.
 


Thumb Gusset FOR LEFT MITTEN:

For the next row: k3, p1, C12F, p1, k2, k17, pm, M1, pm, k1. – 38 sts

K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to end.

Next rows,

A. K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to first mkr, sm, M1, k to last mkr, M1, sm, k1. (The first time you do this, you will end with 3 sts between markers.)

B. For the next 2 rows: K3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to end.


**Here’s the tricky part!!! You need to repeat rows A & B until you have 15 sts between markers, ending on the increase row A. AND…


While repeating these rows A & B, you need to include a Cable row on Needle 1, just like before, on every 9th row. Alternate Cable Front and Cable Back rows. It helps to have a note nearby to keep track of which row you are on. Here is an example of what would follow: 


A(5 between mkrs) 
B
B
A(7 between mkrs)
B(CB)
B
A(9 between mkrs)
B
B
A(11 between mkrs)
B
B
A(13 between mkrs)
B(CF)
B
A(15 between mkrs)


Hand FOR LEFT MITTEN:

Next row: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k to mkr, place the 15 thumb sts between mkrs on waste yarn or stitch holder, k1. – 37 sts

For the next 4 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts

K3, p1, CB12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows: k3, p1, k12, p1, k2, k18. – 37 sts



Arm, Thumb Gusset, and Hand FOR THE RIGHT MITTEN:

Each row remains at a total of 37 sts until thumb gusset.

First cable row: k2, p1, C12B, p1, k3, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18.

Next row: k2, p1, C12F, p1, k3, k18.

For the next 8 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18.



Thumb Gusset FOR RIGHT MITTEN:

For the next row: k2, p1, C12B, p1, k3, k1, pm, M1, pm, k17. – 38 sts

K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to end.

Next rows,

A. K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to first mkr, sm, M1, k to last mkr, M1, sm, k17. (The first time you do this, you will end with 3 sts between markers.)

B. For the next 2 rows: K2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k to end.

**Remember to use opposite cable rows for the Right mitt. Here is an example of what would follow: 

A(5 between mkrs) 
B
B
A(7 between mkrs)
B(CF)
B
A(9 between mkrs)
B
B
A(11 between mkrs)
B
B
A(13 between mkrs)
B(CB)
B
A(15 between mkrs)



Hand FOR RIGHT MITTEN:

Next row: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k1, place the 15 thumb sts between mkrs on waste yarn or stitch holder, k17. – 37 sts

For the next 4 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts

K2, p1, CF12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts

For the next 2 rows: k2, p1, k12, p1, k3, k18. – 37 sts



Finish Hand FOR BOTH MITTENS:

(k11, kfb) 3 times, k1. – 40 sts

K2, p2 ribbing for 8 rows. – 40 sts

Bind off loosely in pattern.



Thumb FOR BOTH MITTENS:

Transfer the 15 sts from the waste yarn onto 3 needles. Join new yarn in-the-round and pick up 4 sts along the gaps. – 19 sts

Knit one round even until 2 sts remain, k2tog. – 18 sts

Knit 4 rounds in this ribbing; k2, p2 until last 2 sts of round, k1, p1. – 18 sts

Bind off loosely in pattern.



Finishing:

Weave in ends, using thumb ends to reinforce the sts around the thumb. Block if desired.



Key:
C12F = place the next 6 sts on the cable needle in front of the work, knit the next 6 sts and then knit the 6 sts from cable needle (cable appears to move to the left)
C12B = place the next 6 sts on the cable needle in back of the work, knit the next 6 sts and then knit the 6 sts from cable needle (cable appears to move to the right)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
 
mkr = marker
M1 = make one stitch, a method of increasing
p = purl
pm = place marker
 
sm = slip marker
St, sts = stitch, stitches 

August 3, 2013

Art Yarn Cowl

Art Yarn Cowl by Erica Knudson


Art Yarn Cowl

I designed this cowl because I had this bright art yarn for YEARS and didn’t know what to do with it. I started this experiment, and voila! I love how it turned out. It is knit in-the-round and is an adult Women’s Medium. It is easily adapted to other sizes by subtracting from or adding to the cast on in multiples of 6 sts.


Materials:

150 yards worsted weight yarn (photo here in Red Heart Soft) This will most likely be too much yarn, but I wanted to give you a safe estimate.
150 yards art yarn (Mine was as thin as thread in places, extra bulky in others.)
Size 13 circular needle
Stitch marker, if desired, to mark the end of the row.


Instructions (from the bottom up):

With both yarns held together, cast on 72 sts (or any multiple of 6), and join, without twisting, in the round. If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.


1. With both yarns held together, k around. – 72 sts

2. With both yarns, p around. – 72 sts

3. With both yarns, k around. – 72 sts

4. With both yarns, (k3, p3) around. – 72 sts

5. With art yarn only, (p3, k3) around. – 72 sts

6. With both yarns, (k3, p3) around. – 72 sts

7. With both yarns, k around. – 72 sts

8. Repeat row 7.

9. Repeat row 7.

10. Art yarn only, p around. – 72 sts

11. Art yarn only, (p2tog, p10) around. – 66 sts

12. Art yarn only, p around. – 66 sts

13. Both yarns, p around. – 66 sts

14. Repeat row 13.

15. Both yarns, (p2tog, p9) around. – 60 sts

16. Worsted yarn only, k around. – 60 sts

17. Repeat row 16.

18. Repeat row 16.

19. Both yarns, k around. – 60 sts

20. Repeat row 19.

21. Repeat row 19.

22. Repeat row 19.

23. Repeat row 19.

24. Repeat row 19.

25. Worsted yarn only, k around. – 60 sts

26. Art yarn only, p around. – 60 sts

27. Art yarn only, (p2tog, p8) around. – 54 sts

28. Both yarns, p around. 54 sts

29. Repeat row 28.

30. Both yarns, k around. – 54 sts

31. Repeat row 30.

32. Repeat row 30.

33. Repeat row 30.

34. Repeat row 30.

35. Worsted yarn only, k around. – 54 sts

36. Art yarn only, k around. – 54 sts

37. Both yarns, k around. – 54 sts

38. Repeat row 37.

39. Both yarns, (kfb, k8) around. – 60 sts

40. Both yarns, p around. – 60 sts

41. Both yarns, (p2tog, p8) around. – 54 sts

42. Art yarn only, p around. – 54 sts

43. Both yarns, p around. – 54 sts

Bind off VERY loosely in knit.



Finishing:

Weave in ends. Block if desired. Be artsy.


Key:

k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
kfb = a method of increasing
p = purl
p2tog = purl 2 together, a method of decreasing
sts = stitch, stitches

Pattern by Erica Knudson at handmadebyerica.blogspot.com. 
You can use this pattern for free, but please don't sell it as your own.

June 14, 2013

Quick Project

I'm really excited about this project. I bought a permanent transfer pen and a small cotton drawstring bag.  With some tracing paper and practice, I made myself a personalized project bag for my knitting/crochet. The flower image is not my original, but "Frances and the Bee" is! You can see my new blog about beekeeping and life in Minnesota at www.francesandthebee.blogspot.com.
 
Also, I'm working on getting some more items up in my Etsy store, FrancesandtheBee. I'm especially excited about this little project bag because it gives me some inspiration for some items to sell in the near future.  So... please check out the links! 




First Taste of Honey from our Hives

April 25, 2013

Pattern: Short Order Toddler Mittens



Short Order Toddler Mittens
By Erica Knudson
One day, my little girl told me she needed some rainbow mittens. These mittens are the result of the order she put it.  It’s a great project for using up some scrap yarn, but can require a LOT of weaving in ends if you choose to do the whole rainbow, like I did. It’s definitely worth it in the end! 
Otherwise, you can choose whatever color combination you’re in the mood for, though I think a minimum of three colors would make them look the coolest. I’m looking forward to making a pair of these with only three colors soon.

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn in a bunch of colors – seven if you’re doing the whole rainbow (photo here in Vanna’s Choice) – You should only need 10 yards total of each strip color.  For the color of the cuff and thumbs, let’s say another 10 yards.  A little goes a long way on little hands!
Size 7 DPNs
Waste Yarn
Tapestry Needle

Stitch marker, if desired, to mark the end of the round

I’m going to make notes on color changes in the pattern. Adjust to whatever scheme you choose. For the example, shown in the photo, here are the colors I’ll reference;

Pink [A],   Orange [B],   Yellow [C],   Green [D],   Blue [E],   Indigo (dk. blue here)[F],   and Purple [G]

Instructions (from the Cuff [bottom] - up):
Cast on 24 sts in [A]. Join, without twisting, in the round.  If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 10 rounds. – 24 sts

Next row, knit around. – 24 sts

Hand, Setting the thumb sts, and Fingers/Shaping:

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
Repeating the chart above across each round, you will knit in stockinette for the remainder of the hand. 

Choose which color is the main color of each stripe (empty squares in chart) and which is the color for the flecks (black squares in chart), and then make sure to rotate the colors through as you move up.  You may see the photos of the finished mittens as reference. Please notice that every other row is simply knit around in the main color of that particular stripe.

It’s a lot of stranding, but hang in there!  The end result is awesome and it’s good to have the stranding close since little fingers aren’t used to navigating those flyers inside. Also, don’t cut your yarn too soon as you’ll use the main color from the previous section for the flecks of the next section. - Just trying to save you some sewing in the end.

So…

Starting in pattern, use [G] for the main color and [A] for the flecks. Complete 4 rows total, which is the same as once through the chart.

Then, using [F] for the main color and [G] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Then, using [E] for the main color and [F] for flecks, knit the first 3 rows of the chart. On the fourth row,

Right Mitten: Knit in pattern until 5 sts remain. Knit last 5 sts onto waste yarn, transfer the sts back to your left needle and knit those 5 sts in pattern. You should be at the end of the round.

Left  Mitten: Knit 7, knit next 5 sts onto waste yarn, transfer the sts back to your left needle and knit those 5 sts in pattern.  Then continue in pattern to the end of the round.

Sometimes I make the “right” and “left” versions of a mitten and find that they could have saved time and said, “make the second mitten identically.” If you’d rather save the hassle, just make both mittens the same way.  If you’re familiar with stranding or striping, you may be able to see the seam where the rounds change, which is why I made a right and left mitten. A toddler probably won’t mind either way.
Continuing on, using [D] for the main color and [E] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Then, using [C] for the main color and [D] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Using [B] for the main color and [C] for flecks, complete 4 more rows, the same as once through the chart.

Finally, using Using [A] for the main color and [B] for flecks, and in pattern with the chart:

                Row 1: Knit 10, k2tog, k10, k2tog

                Row 2: Knit 3, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k4, k2tog

                Row 3: Knit 7, k2tog, k7, k2tog

                Row 4: (k2, k2tog) 4 times – 12 sts remaining

With [A], (k2tog) around. – 6 sts remaining
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, pass tail of yarn through all remaining 6 sts and pull tight. I like to pass it through all the stitches a second time, too.

Thumb:
Pick out waste yarn at space set for thumb and put them back onto needles – 5 sts at the top of the space and 5 sts at the bottom. Also, pick up one st from each side. – 12 sts total.
I then moved them around to be on three needles, 4 sts each, because my brain likes it that way.
With [F], knit around 8 rows. – 12 sts each

Next row: (k1, k2tog) 4 times. – 8 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, pass tail of yarn through all remaining 6 sts and pull tight. I like to pass it through all the stitches a second time, too.

Finishing:

Weave in ends, ends and more ends, reinforcing the sts or spaces around the thumb.

Block if desired.

Enjoy!


Key:
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
St, sts = stitch, stitches

My finished product, unblocked and un-stretched, fits a toddler or small child…

5.5-inch circumference around the hand and 4.5 inches from fingertip to the end of the palm. If it helps, the thumb fits a 1.5-inch length thumb.
 
A view indside...

Pattern: Baby Nolan's Hat


Baby Nolan’s Hat


By Erica Knudson


This is just a quickly-knitted baby hat, made in-the-round, that’s easily personalized with stripes, a monogram, shape, or simpl
y with a favorite color. I believe it is a 3-6 month size.

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn (photo here in Vanna’s Choice) – Half a skein should be enough for this size
Size 6 DPNs
Tapestry Needle

Stitch marker, if desired, to mark the end of the round
Graph paper, if desired, to design monogram or shape for stranding
Yarn for monogram or design


Instructions (from the bottom up):
Cast on 60 sts. Join, without twisting, in the round.  If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 8 rounds. – 60 sts
Next row, (k28, k2tog) twice. – 58 sts

Knit around. – 58 sts

Knit 15 rows in stockinette (knit around, every row), incorporating your monogram if desired. – 58 sts

I started my chart after 2 plain rows of stockinette. I simply completed one row of the chart and finished each row by knitting around in the main color.
Here is an example of a monogram, the chart I used for the letter “N”:

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
Next row: (k2tog, k13, k2tog, k12) twice. – 54 sts
Knit around. – 54 sts

(k7, k2tog) around. – 48 sts

Knit around. – 48 sts

(k2, k2tog) around. – 36 sts

Knit around. – 36 sts

(k2, k2tog) around. – 27 sts

Knit around. – 27 sts

(k1, k2tog) around. – 18 sts

(k1, k2tog) around. – 12 sts

(k2tog) around. – 6 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, pass tail of yarn through all remaining 6 sts and pull tight. I like to pass it through all the stitches a second time, too.

Finishing:
Weave in ends.  Block if desired.

Enjoy!

Key:
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
St, sts = stitch, stitches

My finished product, unblocked and un-stretched, was 6 inches tall and about 12” circumference at the brim.

April 3, 2013

Early Morning Fingerless Mitts

As promised, here is my first knitting design. I said months ago that I'd be posting it "soon."  I guess "soon" is relative...


Early Morning Fingerless Mitts
By Erica Knudson
Early Morning Fingerless Mitts
By Erica Knudson

www.handmadebyerica.blogspot.com

I designed these mitts over a few early mornings after my son was born. They are a simple, stockinette, fingerless pair that can really show off the patterns in a variegated yarn. They are a size Women’s Medium, but made in stockinette and without fingers, they should fit a variety of sizes.

Materials:

150 yards worsted weight yarn (photo here in Cascade Paints)
Size 4mm DPNs
Stitch Markers
Waste yarn for holding stitches


Instructions (from the bottom up):

Cast on 40 sts, divide among three or four needles (your preference) and join, without twisting, in the round. If you prefer to use a stitch marker to mark the end of the round, place it here and move it up with each row.

Arm:

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 12 rounds. – 40 sts

Next row; work k2, p2 until 1 st from the end. Slip purlwise onto the R needle, (remove the end-of-round marker) replace purl st on L needle, and k2tog. – 39 sts

Knit 7 sts, *k2tog, k6* until the end of the row. – 35 sts

Knit in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 6 inches (about 27 rounds of stockinette). – 35 sts each row

Thumb Gusset:

Knit until 1 st remains, pm, cast on one, pm, k1. – 35 sts and 1 st between markers

Knit one round even.

***Knit to next marker, sm, M1, knit to next marker, M1, sm, k1. (The first time you do this, you will end with 3 sts between markers). Then, knit 2 rounds even.

Repeat from *** until you have 15 sts between markers. (I did not do the 2 even rounds after that.)

Hand:

Knit around once, placing the 15 thumb gusset sts (those between the markers) on to the waste yarn or stitch holder.

Knit even for 10 rounds.

Next row; k2, kfb, *k7, kfb. Work from * until the end of the row to end with 40 sts.

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 7 rounds (maybe longer if the wearer has long fingers).

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Thumb:

Transfer the 15 sts from the waste yarn onto 3 needles. Join new yarn in-the-round and pick up 4 sts along the gaps. – 19 sts

Knit one round even until 2 sts remain, k2tog. – 18 sts

Knit 3 rounds in ribbing; k2, p2 until last 2 sts of round, k1, p1.

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Finishing:
Weave in ends, using thumb ends to reinforce the sts around the thumb. Block if desired.

The second mitt is made identically.

Enjoy!


Key:
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together, a method of decreasing
kfb= knit front & back, a method of increasing
L = left
M1 = make one stitch, a method of increasing
p = purl
pm = place marker
R= right
sm = slip marker
St, sts = stitch, stitches